The trend of J-rock fashion, also known as "Visual Kei", came from the over the top rock bands in the 1980's such as X-Japan. These bands got their inspiration from American hair and glam metal bands, and are also reflected in the heavy strain of electric guitar found in their music. The Japanese had also borrowed the elaborate stage productions from the 80's era; the rock opera that was a trend so long ago is still very much alive in force today.
J-Rock is not confined to just 80's rock. It is also a fusion of Goth, Punk, Electronica and Instrumental into a rainbow, with bands selecting a few shades from each form. However, like their musical counterparts in the US, Visual Kei is not a fully mainstream trend in Japan, and is still confined mostly to Independent labels and coffeehouse concerts. Most but not all J-rock bands follow a pattern of sorts, with each member taking an assigned role in the band, with one member of the all male band portraying a woman.
Visual Kei fashions cover the fashion trends found in Goth, Punk and Rock trends, with heavy mixings of everything from baroque gowns to futuristic Matrix-style coats. Their look is of androgynous nature, being neither male nor female but trying to express an ideal of some sort. The emphasis is on elegance, style and decadence of all sorts, the richer the better.
There are two bands that are the best example of J-rock fashion and are also the most well known Visual Kei bands outside of Japan. Malice Mizer, a now defunct Visual band, is one good example of the concept of Visual Kei. Pulling mostly from the Goth spectrum in J-rock, their clothing reflected their music with 17th century costuming, bone white frilled lace shirts and deep black velvet. However, that was not a set look. The members of Malice Mizer have spanned the gamut of costuming from Japanese military garb to Harlequin dolls, depending on what song they were playing or the tone of a particular album. In Malice Mizer, band member Mana played the role of "Porcelain Doll" to the hilt, almost being unrecognizable from an actual woman.
Shazna, another band that has sadly ended, goes more for upbeat guitar with some surprising pop influence. They also go all over the map in their fashion choices. In one video collection they dressed in everything from circus performers in one song to a devilish set of demons in another song. In Shazna, it was Izam who took the female role, acting like the "Free Spirit" and also almost unrecognizable in his role as a woman.
Most who follow J-rock fashion in the US and Japan are women, as the bands are predominately made of very attractive looking men. In the US these fans are very open-minded with American musical tastes that follow one of the J-rocker trends. However, they tend to not be fully immersed in the corresponding musical scene, they are more interested in the Japanese take on that particular style. There is a heavy overlap between Anime fans and J-rock fans, with most finding J-rock through Anime fandom.
The reasons for seeking out and wearing J-rocker fashion are varied. Some do it to feel close to their favorite singer, as people who cosplay their favorite anime characters do. Some are looking for a larger range in the fashion palette that is provided by the aesthetic touch of Japanese fashion trends. There are parallels in anime to some of the activities that fans of Visual Kei partake in, such as translating musical lyrics and importing tour books to pour over the fashions available. Fashion reference staples such as the Gothic and Lolita Bible which contains "Moi-Meme Moitie" a line designed by Malice Mizer's Mana are imported at great price and prized in the US. Those who costume spend hours in stores combing the aisles for look-alikes of favorite accessories or for those items unable to be found, saving up to import them directly. The clothes are not cheap; a set of pants similar to your favorite J-rocker that are advertised in Japanese music magazines such as Shoxx or Arena 37c may cost as high as $175-200 US. A single costume carefully constructed can run into the hundreds of dollars and require massive maintenance. But all of this is worth it when that person steps out onto the street and the decadently full shock value is achieved.
Like other items in Japanese culture borrowed from other countries, it is fascinating to see the way they are reflected back to us and what form they will take. However, no amount of verbal information can convey the craftsmanship and beauty of this unique form of fashion.
Want more on Japanese fashion trends? Check out Fruits, a full-color photo book that features varies fashion styles found in Japan available from Akadot Retail.